Destination: Whaling, the New Fashioned Way

Armed with a camera and a kayak paddle, we paddled out (under the guidance of Alaska Mountain Guides) to the mouth of the bay looking to get close to the whales we knew were out there. This was our third day of paddling along Isla Magdalena on Bahia Magdalena. Late winter into early spring was the birthing and mating season for the gray whales and Bahia Magdalena was their nursery.

Our trip started on the eastern side of the sandbar that makes up the southern section of the island. A short hike over the dunes yielded a wonderful sight, medium sized breakers crashing onto a beautiful sandy and deserted beach.  With the entire beach to ourselves, we beach combed, swam and enjoyed the sunset.


Over the next three days we kayaked south towards the opening of the bay.  Whales come into the bay each year to give birth and we were heading towards the optimal spot to watch whales entering the bay.  On the third day, we pulled into camp early in the day and ate lunch before jumping back into our kayaks to go hunt whales with our cameras.


Not knowing what to expect, we started chasing after the plumes of mist.  Each plume seeming further and further away.  Several time we saw whales broach the surface from a distance and where awed by the size of the whales.  We quickly discovered that while kayaks move efficiently though the water, whales move more efficiently.  Our only hope to get close to a whale was for us to be in the path of an approaching whale.  So imagine our surprise when a small pod of whales surfaced right in front of us.

For all their bulkiness, the whales cut through the water smoothly and gracefully, their movements slow and almost choreographed.  While we did manage to get close to some whales, the most special part of the trip was as we were leaving the bay.  Our boat ride back included touring the bay looking for whales.

Whales being social creatures, like many mammals, have found that large boats are fun to play with and rub against.  Once we got back out on the bay the following morning, the whales came over to the boat in contrast to our kayaks.  They came so close to the boat that we could lean over and touch their rubbery velvet skin.  So close that we could look in their eyes.  So close that we were sprayed by their mist (or whale snot).  And so close that we could see the barnacles peppering their skin. While we were fine with them bumping the motorboat, the same would not have been true in the kayak.  It was a very special moment to be so close to a whale in a kayak but the safety of the motorboat was comforting.  And made for some better pictures and great stories.


This story was originally posted March 30, 2010.